Wigs are made out of either a synthetic fiber, human hair, or a combination of both. 

Non-costume wigs can cost anywhere from $200 to several thousand dollars. And while a higher price often does mean better quality, a good synthetic wig can cost around $300. Wigs made of human hair are more expensive, costing between $800 and $6,000.

Synthetic wigs are often made of modacrylic fibers produced in Japan. They hold their style even on humid days and don’t need to be washed as often as human-hair wigs—something to consider because going through chemo doesn’t afford you much energy to do things like regularly washing and styling a wig. You just need to keep these wigs away from heat—dryers, hot tools, and even the stove. Generally, synthetic wigs last for up to 5 months with daily use.

If you opt for human hair, you can choose the ethnicity, style, and texture for a more natural look. Wigs made of human hair are primarily cut in Asia. Wigs made with finer European hair are less common and as much as 20 times more expensive. Human hair can withstand the same treatments your natural hair could, including rolling, cutting, hot tools, and dyeing. However, these wigs are heavier than synthetics and require more maintenance. Human hair wigs last for up to one year or longer with daily use. “Human hair is ideal if you’re a person who likes to change it up because it has no limits,”. “You can flat iron it one day, blow it out the next day, and barrel curl it for beach waves another day.” There are limitations with synthetic hair wigs.

Wigs are constructed in two ways: machine-made and hand-tied. 

Machine-made wigs are the most affordable, featuring open wefts—strands of hair fibers that are sewn or glued to tracks of stretchy material to make layered curtains of hair. The back and sides are open for ventilation while the hair on top is often lightly teased or crimped to hide the cap. “They’re less expensive but can be itchy and uncomfortable on a cancer patient’s sensitive scalp,” says Watts. “They would need to wear a cap underneath to make it more comfortable, but if it’s possible financially, a hand-tied wig would be most comfortable.”

Hand-tied wigs feature soft, flexible mesh caps to which individual hair strands are tied. The cap molds to the shape of your head, and you can part a hand-tied wig in any direction and have more freedom to style it however you’d like. The hair looks like it’s growing right out of your scalp because you can actually see through to your scalp without bulky fabric in the way.

Monofilament wigs can feature both types of construction—the back and sides are machine-made while the front and top are hand-tied for a more natural look.

Another characteristic you might want in your wig is a lace front, which is a very fine mesh along the front that companies sew hair into to mimic a natural-looking hairline.

When hair falls out, the scalp may feel tender or sensitive. Some wigs can irritate the scalp, so wearing a bamboo or cotton skullcap between the scalp and the wig can help. The cap provides a protective barrier, but it also helps secure the wig and absorb sweat. Avoid nylon or fishnet caps that can pinch and bind and aren’t breathable.

A velvety wig band can be worn instead of or in addition to a wig cap. The fabric’s nap acts like a grippy headband that helps keep the wig in place. Most of them also feature a sheer mesh patch that sits underneath the wig’s part in case you have a monofilament wig.

When you’re not wearing your wig, you’ll want to store it on a wig stand away from sunlight, heat, moisture, and dust.

Wearing a wig isn’t complicated, but proper alignment is key. If you’re purchasing your wig in a walk-in store, the stylist should show you how to put it on and adjust it. 

Generally, a wig should be washed once a week or once every 2 week, but because chemo patients have such dry scalps, they could go up to a month before washing. You should wash your wig more often to remove sweat and dirt if you’re especially active outdoors. Gently swirl your wig in a mixture of cold water and gentle shampoo. Let it soak for a few minutes, then rinse with cold water. Lightly wrap the wig in a towel to remove excess water and drape it on a wig stand to dry. Once completely dry, brush it with boar bristle brush using light, short strokes.

If you have a standard synthetic wig, keep it away from heat, like an oven, grill, or open fire, because it could melt. In most cases, you shouldn’t use heated styling tools or a hairdryer on a synthetic wig unless it is labeled “heat friendly” or “heat defiant,” a feature that can double the price of the wig.

A good wig stylist can also help maintain, trim, and repair your wig to make it last longer. Synthetic wigs can get a little crunchy over time. “The fibers go through a slow bake because they are right up against your body, hovering about 100 degrees, and rubbing against your clothes,”. “The heat and abrasion break down synthetic fibers, but I can defrizz it and trim the edges to bring it back to life.”